Don't Let Hand and Wrist Pain Ground You: Understanding and Preventing Climbing Injuries
For climbers the thrill of conquering a challenging route is unparalleled. However, the unique demands of rock climbing and bouldering can put significant stress on the hands and wrists, leading to frustrating injuries.
At North Shore Hand Therapy we understand the passion for climbing and the desire to stay on the wall. That's why we've put together this guide to shed light on common climbing hand injuries, climbing wrist injuries, and crucial strategies for injury prevention for climbers.
Common Climbing Hand Injuries:
The intricate network of small bones, ligaments, and tendons in the hand makes it particularly vulnerable to overuse and acute trauma during climbing. Some frequent hand injuries in climbers we see in our clinic include:
Pulley Injuries: These are tears or ruptures of the annular pulleys, the fibrous bands that hold the flexor tendons close to the finger bones. Often occurring during crimping holds, they can range from mild pain to a noticeable "bowstringing" of the tendon. Understanding climber's finger pain is often the first step in identifying a pulley injury.
Flexor Tendonitis: Inflammation of the tendons that bend the fingers, often caused by repetitive gripping and pulling. This can manifest as pain along the palm side of the fingers and wrist.
Joint Sprains and Dislocations: Sudden forceful movements or falls can lead to sprains of the small joints in the fingers (PIP and DIP joints) or even dislocations.
Skier's Thumb (Ulnar Collateral Ligament Injury): While often associated with skiing, this ligament at the base of the thumb can also be injured during forceful gripping or falls while climbing.
Common Climbing Wrist Injuries:
The wrist acts as a crucial link between the forearm and the hand, absorbing significant force during climbing movements. Common wrist injuries in climbers we treat in include:
Wrist Sprains: Overstretching or sudden twisting of the wrist can damage the ligaments, leading to pain, swelling, and limited range of motion.
TFCC (Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex) Injuries: This cartilage structure on the small finger side of the wrist provides stability. Repetitive loading and twisting can lead to injuries, causing pain, clicking, and weakness.
Distal Radius Fractures: While less common, falls onto an outstretched hand can result in fractures of the distal radius (the larger bone in the forearm at the wrist).
Carpal Tunnel Syndrome: Although not solely a climbing injury, the repetitive gripping and wrist flexion involved can exacerbate or contribute to nerve compression in the carpal tunnel, leading to numbness, tingling, and weakness in the hand.
Preventing Climbing Hand and Wrist Injuries: Staying Strong on the Wall
The good news is that many climbing injuries are preventable with the right approach. Here are some key strategies for injury prevention for climbers.
Proper Warm-up: Never skip your warm-up! Include dynamic stretches for your fingers, wrists, and forearms, as well as some easy climbing to gradually prepare your muscles and tendons for the demands ahead.
Listen to Your Body: Pain is a signal. Don't push through sharp or persistent pain. Rest and address any discomfort early on.
Gradual Progression: Avoid increasing climbing grade or intensity too quickly. Allow your body time to adapt to new stresses.
Focus on Technique: Efficient movement reduces unnecessary strain on your hands and wrists. Consider coaching to refine your technique.
Strengthening Exercises: Incorporate exercises that specifically target the finger flexors, extensors, and forearm muscles.
Stretching and Flexibility: Regularly stretch your forearms, wrists, and fingers to maintain flexibility and range of motion.
Proper Gear: Ensure your climbing shoes fit well and provide adequate support.
Rest and Recovery: Allow sufficient rest between climbing sessions to allow your body to recover and rebuild.
Consider Cross-Training: Activities like yoga or swimming can help improve overall strength and flexibility, reducing the risk of injury.
Don't let hand or wrist pain keep you off the wall. By understanding the common injuries, implementing preventative strategies, and seeking timely help when needed, you can continue to enjoy the challenges and rewards of climbing for years to come.
